About This File
Suggestions for which ones to go for to get an overall idea
- Atmosphere blue added color
- sunshade both versions - similar but cleaner light, yellow/beach sand
-original V1 (first screenshot with warm colors)
- reshade sunnier V7 -the last couple of screenshots, its for day and night also, this one is crystal clear light and came up really well but use any of them
- night version of sunnier V7 is may be only useful for night, but all files basically go alright with night time, though I usually only play in the day or afternoon, changing manually, but some stadia look great at night some don't normally, hope this helps with that.
Some of these I tried and succeeded largely in getting a real 'sunshine' kind of look, even when its a subtle effect. In one or two I selected very particularly a specific color temperature shade of RGB that when applied via a tint blends the scene as the 'light' dynamically happens in with the luminance settings and white balance, thus creating a layered affect upon the end result. Well that RGB tint is very specifically applied and if you are going to alter anything - lol man, I can't stop you - but don't alter that whatever you do. This is essentially a 'light bounce' kind of effect and will make more sense when in motion. But its not ray tracing or nothing, its not as dynamic as one may think nor is it 'reflective' as such, it just takes calculations from the scene, and reshade facilitates that.
I have tried to make it all consistent and even, and the brightness which for your screen may be too peaky, you can tone down instructions later, but it should be good to go, and many shades on either side of white, warm/cold, etc in sunshine and not.
I tried to keep the consistency between each one because the color grading used across them is particularly cinematic/neutral and pleasing. Its blending nicely with the luminance, and the colours as you can tell come across fairly realistically.
Why reshade? So when they did the game to go easy on the eyes and have all colors pop and do varied times of day and weather, they did it all around green. But the game has a green tint to it, makes sense in many ways, but now we can reshade it. I think you are going to like at least several of these. They are all built off the same base, and yes I guess you can even use them in other games or get an insight into how the luminance and gamma and balance all goes together.
If you stare at something bright and color-starved for too long it can sear your eyeballs since you have to focus harder. A little fix for that near end if its a bother. But make sure to get eye-rest haha.
I am not using HDR for each and every one or anything like that as its simply unnecessary for some of them. The colours are gamma-corrected and all that, and the main file is balanced around red, but one is balanced around blue, one is simply 1.0 1.0 1.0 so its very neutral.
If you add things to these you're just kidding yourself, but lol as if I'd know, so you can change them but dont forget to make a backup.
The original graphics the game has are good and they are clear and vibrant, they are uniform and have a yellow-green-grass tinge, it favors no single colour but indeed, its a bit of a mish-mash. Baseball stadiums are unique and varied so I totally understand the colour the way they did it, it was super cool.
This could become your most favored reshade. The result is very different and its been good to see the stadia with the new scenic lighting and effects. Its not perfect but its a real improvement. Its very enjoyable. There's 2 ends of effects - red/shadowy to blue-brighter or clearer and yellow sunshine style, all done without trying to blow out the image. You can easily adjust any of this.
For reshade I add keys to control the files
I set shift f1 to turn it on and off and F1 to go forward though the files in-game and F2 to go backwards. Works like a charm.
Troubleshooting and install further down in case you do not know
I have played baseball games for years, and in life, and all that and like most people have a sense of how it feels to sit in a dark spot looking out on the sunshine or anything like that, I always wondered why the game light was so flat, it was just how games were back hen, so I have always had an interest in making something with a grassy field come to life when it came to this title. I am also from Australia and even the kangaroos can struggle with the heat at times. So if I have made the dirt too red or something I am sorry for that, as some stadia I have on this (from this website) use the alternate dirt, eg picklebrad and they get darker over time. You can probably adjust that out with reducing colour maybe, but I think it should be fine as the color grading is pretty good.
Today we can use the greater processing power, so I have made these files, and the colour grading as you will come to see is very different, may be you will find it preferable. I liked it so much I only play with it now.
I originally made it to work with the hd skies cloudy day games. And I felt the result was excellent. And it works on any and every weather/time of day.
After several attempts I was able to do a HDR version and then a clear blue version.
I also made a version that is the follow-on to the original v1 red-warm version, and if you switch to it, you will see how it makes things seem sunnier - in a cloudy day its a little, on a sunny day its a lot, so may be I should adjust its contrast a little downward but if you switch between them you will see how it seems like the sun is breathing which is an effect ENB actually does in Skyrim SE...
No, so this game doesn't do clouds like that but you can switch it up manually depending on what match you are playing. I know the light changes from inning to inning, so the colour and light gradually changes, so it is up to you whichever version you prefer, but one of v1, 2, 3 should suffice.
The other versions are simply alternatives, one that is slightly less red, one that is 'sunny' with HDR.
With them all, you can open up after making a backup, the filter and change down contrast in filmic pass. Filmicpass is actually one of the main filters, another main one kinda is DPX and then HDR if used. Those values if you believe this is all too bright or not colorful enough, then you can change it.
Info on installing, very easy:
This is the realshade file I use, using it with realshade 5.4.2 available at https://reshade.me/ hit the download link. Reashade is easy to install you just run it and point it in the direction of the file you use to start the game, select every filter available in the install, and it will download all the filters. You then run the game and use home key to bring up the menu, run the tutorial and select a key later on in the settings to make a toggle. Home will always bring up the menu, but to toggle off/on I personally use shift-F1. However at some point make sure to drop this file into the folder. You will then select it from the menu (home key by default)
Description:
In the pictures the last two are comparison shots you should be able to identify the original which is the very last picture. It is not unusual for a game especially of that era to use green/yellow shades or similar when it comes to making something that resembles sunlight or as the basis for their color in game. Movies will do it too, however, you will note how the realistic reshade is using more blue as a base. The contrast and light and shadow is also improved due to other filters.
I am also using the HD skies in miscellaneous section of this website.
Troubleshooting
Each picture is a progression from v1 to v3, with the last ones adding in the contrast changes (original v1 did not require contrast changes), but Gamma and constrast on your monitor may alter it a little bit, but also if it looks 'pasty/grey or pale' you can adjust the contrast so you get that nice deep black - that is the 'greyscale', and its white balance is out if it does that. If however its just far too bright for you, you can relax your eyes by either 1 turning off sharpening, or turning it down, 2 changing contrast lower slightly in one of the filters for example in 'filmicpass'.
One example of that pasty-grey look or grey-film cast over a screen is easily fixed. Your gamma may be at 1, and if you made it 1.1 it would make the screen more black and thus remove the pasty-grey casting on the screen. If however your screen is too bright, then you would lower contrast. Other signs may be can't see shadows on a grey uniform - then you would lower or increase contrast until you can see them. If its simply the whole screen is too bright, you can turn down those settings as well, or turn off HDR or use a non-HDR one. Turn any and all off/on if you like, just keep a backup copy.
Another example may be you see it as being too dark, squashing colours, or too shadowy as in you can't see details - in this case your gamma would be too high. If gamma is 1 then you can take it down to .9. Values at this point are just arbitrary...but on phones and tvs they may aim for 1.2 or 1.1 gamma. In print media it may be 1.3 since you are looking at things on a page, for computers, 1.1 is a relatively high value. So lowering it will balance out the 'greyscale'.
If you like it less colour (because sometimes too little colour will change colours as much as too much colour) you can adjust the settings in colourfulness. However as they are they are pretty spot-on. It might be your monitors color is too rich. But if you do not want to adjust that you will be able to find a setting. A tip: don't try to adjust individual colours - if blue for example is too bright, just lower all colours a fraction, while your eye may not see them all as being too bright, they probably are. However, I think you will find no problems with colors. The way the filters work is it goes off of a base sheet/lut for brightness, it should work independent of literally everything - however it might be you have set the nvidia/amd driver color at a different value. You can also change things there. Its ultimately adjusting the same thing as reshade.
- if however it is too bright and you know something is 'blown-out' in terms of white-washing over the colours like in the menu system, or for anything else it could well be the contrast setting (like above) but here is a setting in filmicpass called contrast and its set to something like .850 or even .900.... you can lower it by 50 points each time you like to see if the screen comes back closer to what you like.
I'm sure you will be fine. Good luck!
Edited by Truncatedjive
redid description added troubleshooting
What's New in Version 2.6 HDR See changelog
Released
- added HDR instead of former 'luminance' file I have updated to include HDR on by default - this was the only file to get HDR by default, its not necessary for the others unless you really want it somehow; the contrast on the brightest ones is improved by this, but the contrast was fine on the normal ones. I came across a scenario where this is beneficial, keeps the scene and everything clear, and is easier on the eyes. The last screenshot is the HDR
I will explain the extra files and all at once. Night for example is only being used by me when the scene is darker for extra clarity; all files can technically be used any time
- first 9 pics is original
- then 3 pics is sunny
- then its the night version
- then its the sunny luminance/HDR
- I apologise because atmosphere may be in there or not when it comes to pictures, but it is included in the files. It will be slightly darker/movie mode
So when people colorgrade, a phone may have done it around the color blue or a samsung tv from 2010, but they no longer do it as such with dynamic adjustments, but its easy to make a scene pop around blue. The truth is all screens are calibrated at the manufacturing plant quickly. The only thing you will need to do here is perhaps adjust your monitor gamma or otherwise find a gamma setting, you may think something is too bright well you can adjust it.
If your eyes are hurting you may find turning off the sharpening helpful, or using a different sharpening filter (just unselect/re-select another but keep a backup)
The game and the filters, explanation
When the game came out, its largely around green and yellow, because obviously the grass has sunlight shining off it and it makes the scene a certain way.
THAT is fine for the game and I like how it looks, but this reshade is something else, it makes it brighter and its balanced around red. So when we turn it up, you will see how the light goes into yellow/clear. While none of the lighting is purely perfect, its mostly cosmetic in nature, but you will see how its seeming like its more real; because those filters are not just 'light or colors' they are doing things to the pixels on the fly. The trouble with a phone or tv going around the color blue is that blue is hard to get 'correct'... green is much easier and the game came like that, but it didn't pop, red is not really a great idea but the result is just fine. You can adjust the red value I listed by 0.1 up or down if you like.
To adjust it like that, or have the colors in the game like they now are is entirely abnormal - and its more cosmetic versus totally real - but you will note how the light goes to about 6500k (daylight, maybe 6300k) or even down to 4000 or 5000 kelvin, and the color is a warm tone, and textures take on a reddish in hue especially in the dirt, or yellow/bright otherwise. It relies on several filters now but you should be able to find one file for a particular stadium; a couple do not have much difference but at the right ground you may appreciate the differences.
- Original is meant to be a plain color grading idea. So the game comes with a very decent and clear color and kinda realistic type scenes. Maybe not really but in 2012 it was good. So atmosphere is meant to be a kind of movie-mode with deeper contrast and blacks.
The difference between atmosphere and original is that atmosphere 'pops' with the same kind of colors. Both use the same color grading.
The difference with sunny is its using 1.3 in the red section of colorlab and a couple of other tweaks here and there to make the contrast and light a little different. Original uses 1.0 in red (hence balance), and others use 1.1 in red, or something else. You can tweak this to how you like all around red, or maybe something else its up to you in blue. Just keep a backup.
I hope you will find this all super smooth in use and its a breeze to change it out.
